A Houston Artist Abroad - Pt 4: GUÉRANDE
Emma Richardson Cherry in Brittany, the Loire Valley and Paris, 1925.
This is the next leg of our virtual Centennial recreation of the journey made by Emma Richardson Cherry (1859-1954), the Dean of Houston Artists, and her traveling companion, Clemens Tanquary Robinson (1897-1963), to Brittany, Normandy, the Loire Valley and Paris in the summer of 1925. For other stops on the journey, see my Substack section titled Emma in Brittany and Beyond, 1925-1926.
Part 4: GUÉRANDE.
MONDAY, JULY 6, 1925 – GUÉRANDE, FRANCE – “Guérande has turned out to be a most sweet and unsophisticated spot, in spite of the fact that it is hemmed in on three sides by sea-side resorts full of city folks in chic clothes and paint.” Clemmie Tan Letter #5. Shown above, Street in Guérande by ER Cherry, 1925, with her drawing for the painting, and postcard views of the town, below.
TUESDAY, JULY 7, 1925 - GUÉRANDE, FRANCE – “The first two nights we spent in MADAME QUINETTE’S Hotel-Restaurant-Café, where we discovered some of the most exquisite cooking we had found anywhere (and we stayed in grandish nice places at Caen and Havre). Madame Quinette herself is comely and as fresh and crisp as a lettuce leaf. She turns this heavenly food out of her kitchen with as much ease apparently as a conjurer pulls bunnies out of his hat. … The meal invariably consists of the following courses 1. Cold shell-fish, mostly crab and mayonnaise with radishes 2. Fried fish 3. Roast with big bowl of salad and either haricots verts or petits pois 4. Fromage 5. Fruits avec gateaux. Will you believe me when I tell you that we pay exactly 8 francs (40 cts) for this meal?” Clemmie Tan Letter #5.
“We ordered a bottle of Bordeau [sic] – which they keep for us and which we finished at today’s dinner.” Since Prohibition was still in place in Houston, the folks at home might have been especially envious of the “Bordeau.” Emma Richardson Cherry Letter, July 13, 1925.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 1925 - GUÉRANDE, FRANCE – OUR ROOM IN GUÉRANDE - “Mme. Quinette told us of this place [with Mme. Mandin and her family]…” “You would approve of our room – a huge room with beams and slanting ceiling.” “… in the attic part of the house – all plastered and two [very comfortable] beds.” “We have a room adjoining in which to keep our painting things and since it has a skylight we can paint there on rainy days.” “Mme. Mandin’s place is as neat as wax. She is one thrifty housewife. They are a buxom family – wish I was as strong. Electricity is the only modern convenience. They bring the water for us to the lower floor – and … a basin of hot water every morning. Clean sheets once a month is still the vogue in Guérande. We made an objection but were informed no one did otherwise! They are heavy linen and weigh a ton, so I don’t wonder they don’t want to wash them often. By sponging every morning one can get along, but on a warm day, such as yesterday, a bath tub would seem a comfort. I don’t suppose there is one in town. It’s an old walled city – with four battlemented entrances. We live just outside the principal entrance – all cobble stone streets.” Clemmie Tan.
"We are so lucky in having a good place also here in Guérande. We only stumbled into the place the day we arrived, just so we could look around and get located. But we found it clean – and very decent beds and clean rooms. Only electricity for modern conveniences however – which seems to be the rule here in Guérande. Our room here at Mme. Mandin's is on the third floor – she lives on the second. Our room is done off from what would be an attic at home. But it has a real window – opening like doors – double, and is newly plastered – bare floor – two small rugs in front of each of our beds. A wardrobe, wash stand – two pitchers – a shelf where a mirror hangs a towel rack – two tables and two chairs. There is an attic with windows in the roof – sky lights, and Mme. Gives us the use of it for our painting, our easels, trunks and so on. We have had much rain, so we find this a good place to paint. We notice in the papers that the rains are general all over France – so we would be no better off to change. So far it has not bothered us much, as we have three things going, inside, and we keep them for attic work. We still take our chocolate in the morning downstairs in the "buvette" as it's as cheap as to get it – and saves us the mess. Mme. came up last night with clean sheets, much to our surprise as it's only two weeks. Guess she caught our American telepathy! We have fresh towels every week! … Our breakfast place – here, is run by a sister and husband – so we are quite in this family. They seem to like us very much – and are most friendly. … Across the street where I told you the magnolia and figs grow – and where there is a real, detached house and a yard and a grill fence lives an old lady – alone, with a servant. The lace curtains at her windows make one’s mouth water!" Emma Richardson Cherry to her daughter, Dorothy, July 27, 1925.
THURSDAY, JULY 9, 1925 – GUÉRANDE, FRANCE – THE VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW.
“We have a nice house opposite where an old lady – upper class, I imagine – lives with her servant. There is quite a front yard – all gravelled [sic], with tall iron fence and fancy gate. Enormous bushes, with their glazed, shining leaves at each corner of the house – which is three storied – the upper a mansard roofed affair. Nice garden at the back, where I can see magnolia trees – so I feel quite at home. Wisteria is blooming all along a building at the side of the yard.”
“The sea in the distance beyond. Also two windmills – whose arms are flying around. One of the peasants – when we met men working yesterday - said there was not much work now for the mills – ‘as it was a past industry.’ ‘What a pity’ we replied.” ERC Letter, July 13, 1925.
FRIDAY, JULY 10, 1925 – GUÉRANDE, FRANCE – “The town is full of bits to do – most interesting, and everybody is so nice to us. I have four small things done already – and tell Pops [i.e. her husband, D.B. Cherry] I’m not working hard – only enough to fill the time. We rest after lunch, not going out until three or four. There is such a long twilight – one can see outside to work, as late as eight or nine o’clock.”
To be continued …
I’m with you on that. I do so love the paintings pictured here.
I wish I could have traveled with her.